How Important is Exfoliating?
Exfoliation is the method used to remove dead cells collected on the epidermal or upper surfaces of the skin. The skin sheds its cells every month or so that forms as particles around us. At times, these cells don't fall from the skin and remain on the surface trapping dust, oil and grime along with it. Exfoliation helps remove those cells that are caught on top and revive dull skin.
Exfoliation is performed using substances called exfoliants. These exfoliants are the main ingredients or source that helps slough off the dead cells and can be classified into three varieties:
Physical exfoliants are ingredients that help slough-off dead cells via friction or massaging. They are the most commonly found exfoliants.
Walnut or Apricot shell – the powdered version of these shells are widely used in face and body scrubs.
Sugar – is also used popularly in lip scrubs as it is cost-effective.
Microbeads – are small plastic or encapsulated beads that help gently exfoliate the skin. They are commonly used in face washes.
Chemical exfoliants include acids that help remove dead cells without rubbing the skin. Though the term acids may sound scary, they are the most effective exfoliant that does not irritate the skin due to friction.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA's) like kojic acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid is derived from natural sources. They help exfoliate and de-pigment the skin to reveal the bright skin hidden beneath.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) is used to cleanse the pores and get rid of any grime, dust, dirt and product residue to ensure that the peel completes the job. Salicylic acid is the most common BHA that is widely recommended for oily skin.
Mechanical exfoliants aid in exfoliation by using certain tools, which can be re-used, unlike the other types.
Loofas – these exfoliating tools are most commonly found in every household. They are a fun way to gently exfoliate the skin while creating a bubbly lather to make the skin squeaky clean.
Muslin cloth – this common kitchen tool used to make cottage cheese can also be used to gently exfoliate the skin. Muslin or cheesecloth is gentle enough to be used on children.
Gloves – are a convenient way to scrub every nook and corner of your body without struggling to grip the tool.
Dry brushing – is a new tool introduced under the mechanical section. It is similar to a hairbrush either made of fine, stiff hairs like coconut to remove dead cells, similar to how lint is removed. This technique is the only exfoliant which can be used on the body without wasting water.
Major Reasons to Exfoliate
Exfoliation has multiple benefits that all leave your skin glowing:
What is the difference between at-home exfoliation and med spa procedures?
Three major differences set apart the product you receive in a tube versus the ones at a medical spa.
Firstly, the product itself is going to be of a different chemical formula. The peels and masks used at med spas are at a much higher concentration and show faster results in comparison to their at-home versions. This is because products with higher concentrations should be handled with care by trained personnel; otherwise, they can do more harm than good.
Furthermore, all the equipment and machinery are medical-grade. Med spas invest a good amount of money to get the best machinery that has safety features that cannot be provided with an at-home device.
Lastly, expertise and skill in the field of aesthetics is something that is learnt over years of training and experience. It is always safer to leave maintenance procedures in the hands of trained professionals like doctors and estheticians in comparison to a saloon aunty, friend or yourself for the matter.
Here are the Treatments Available at Tamira that can help Boost your Exfoliation game:
Chemical peels are an effective procedure that combines the dual effects of AHA's and BHA to exfoliate the skin. They reduce the appearance of fine lines, dark spots, pigmentation, sunburn, UV damage and open pores. Chemical peels can help brighten and lighten the skin with the results improving along with every session. Some of the popular chemical peels include; cosmelan, dermamelan, yellow, superficial and medium-depth.
Microdermabrasion is a technique that involves a diamond burr to gently scrape off the excess dead cells from the surface of the skin. This procedure reduces the appearance of fine lines, dark specks, rough patches and acne scars, revealing radiant and smooth skin below. Microdermabrasion is frequently combined with chemical peels to achieve the best results.
Hydra facial, as the name suggests, is an ultra-hydrating facial that gently exfoliates the skin while infusing it with moisturizing and hydrating serums that replenish and refresh the skin. This procedure is a celebrity favourite that rejuvenates the skin and brings a glow from within. The hydra facial not only exfoliates and refreshes the skin but also removes blackheads in the process.
Skin polishing can help professionally exfoliate other parts of your body using a mix of physical, chemical and mechanical exfoliants. This procedure is a medical-grade adaptation of traditional bathhouses, after which, you can notice months of accumulated dead skin roll-off your body. The results are instant and help in the prevention of body acne due to excessive perspiration.
If you're thinking about when to choose between the two, the best option is to choose both. Professional exfoliation at med spas is to be done with an interval of one-month in-between sessions. During that time, mild exfoliating products can be used at home, under the discretion of your dermatologist.
The dos and don'ts:
While exfoliating at the comfort of your home, keep in mind that skin can differ in texture, type and sensitivity all over the body. The face, neck, hands and scalp are sensitive parts of the body that need to be exfoliated with care.
People with dry skin should opt for a cream-based scrub or a dry brush to exfoliate their skin. Nevertheless, dry skin needs to be lathered in moisturizer after exfoliation to prevent flaking.
Normal or combination skin choose any variety of exfoliant and should ideally exfoliate twice a week. Whereas, people with oily skin, should preferably opt for chemical or combination (physical and chemical) exfoliants. This will ensure that their pores remain unclogged to prevent comedones.
Nevertheless, exfoliation is not for everybody! Patients diagnosed with psoriasis, rosacea and other skin conditions may not be eligible to exfoliate their skin. If you fall under this category, please discuss with your dermatologist before trying to exfoliate.
How often should I exfoliate?
This completely depends on the abrasive nature of the exfoliant and the body part you are targeting.
Daily exfoliation:
Exfoliants that have a mild exfoliating effect can be used daily on the skin. Because they are very gentle and will not cause irritation or micro-tears on the skin.
For the face, a gentle exfoliating muslin cloth, face wash, toner or cream containing chemical exfoliants or microbeads can be used once a day or as prescribed. On the other hand, moisturizing scrub liquid soaps that contain small amounts of physical exfoliants like walnut/apricot shell can be used on the body.
Alternate exfoliation:
Exfoliants that have moderately abrasive properties can be used every other day on the skin to slough off dead cells. Mechanical exfoliants like loofas, dry brushing and pumice stones are perfect for this division. The break in-between exfoliation sessions allow the skin time to breathe and relax without becoming damaged.
Weekly exfoliation:
Exfoliants which have a higher concentration of exfoliating properties should be used once to twice a week. Most at-home chemical peels, peeling face packs, face scrubs and body polishes fall under this category due to their potency. Using these kinds of products more than twice a week can lead to over-exfoliation.
How do I know if I'm over exfoliating?
Over exfoliation is a term used to describe the skin when it has been exfoliated extensively. This can be caused not only due to the number of times the skin has been exfoliated, but also, the pressure used while exfoliating the skin. Over exfoliation can lead to severe skin irritation caused by micro-tears on the skin which aren't visible to the naked eye. These micro-tears can also lead to skin barrier damage, bleeding, tenderness and infections. Therefore, exfoliation should be performed with caution, specifically when done on children.